Eating & Drinking #3

      I must devote an entire blog to my absolute favorite -- DESSERT! As a lover of sweets, I proclaimed that I have not only "one" sweet tooth, but sweet teeth. Vienna coffee houses are legendary and are an integral part of Viennese life. There are the traditonal coffee houses as well as Konditoreien, which are cake shops (e.g. Aida, the pink and brown color scheme scream "1950 retro!", there's one in Stephansplatz). 

     Although my professor asserts that we must visit Cafe Central (the place is rich with history and great literary and artistic talents used to congregate her to discuss politics, literature, arts, etc.), I find the place rather snobby. Compared to other coffee houses, this place is expensive. Advice: buy a cup of regular coffee, soak in the ambience, and make it a "done once it's done" deal. 

     
Must-Visit(s): 

• Cafe Sacher: The cafe is a tourist-must-visit because of its famous Sacher Torte. Created in 1832 by owner Franz Sacher, the chocolate cake is topped with chocolate shavings and has two layers of aromatic apricot jam. Personally, I think there's liquor added to the cake. The alcohol draws out the sweetness and richness of the cake; thus creating a lingering, unforgettable taste. 

• Demel: The lively konditorei is always filled with crowds because the it used to provide sweets for the Habsburg rulers. The most acclaimed is the Ana Demel Torte. This cake is composed of six layers of decadently rich chocoalte and nougat (three layers each)!

• Cafe Sperl: I discovered this quaint cafe accidentally... I remembered that it was raining that day... I was by myself, loitering around MQ area with nothing specific in mind when I stumbled upon this gorgeous Jegendstil coffee house. The atmosphere was quiescent; there was no rush in ordering the coffee. Instead, people read the paper, played pool, and drank their coffees as if they had all the time in the world... (below: Cafe Sperl, apple strudel, and plum cake).

 

• Cafe Hawelk: Hidden away in the alley, the hard-to-find Cafe Hawelk charms visitors with its unpretentious and relaxing atmosphere. The place offers only one type of coffee, house, and one type of cake (although the cake varies, but you just have to try your luck) daily. Nonetheless, it attracts the gamut of Viennese society, including artists and writers. 

Eating & Drinking (#2)

     Drinking in Vienna is an exciting affair! The choices include: beer, wine, and coffee, each option is de-licious~ 

• Beer: Our favorite drinking spot is 7 Stern Brau, a local brewery. Some of the choices include: Hanf Bier (a golden, sweet lager that leaves a slight hemp-y taste), Chilli Bier (it's actually spcity! I tried it, out of curiosity, and... let's just say it was not the smartest idea), etc. My favorite is the Prager Dunkles. This dark malt beer is nice and smooth, with a hint of carmel and vanilla.  

• Wine: A beloved beverage, the Vienna has a seven sq km of vineyards within its borders. Huerigens, the equivalent of wine taverns, are quite accessible. Grinzing, having the largest concentration of heurigens, is rather touristy and the wine taverns that are on the main road offer kitsch music and performances. My friends and I tried both Passauerhof (tourist-oriented) and Zawodsky (secluded and more authentic). Both are great and offer a distinctive flair of their own. However, I do recommend taking the 15 minutes walk to Zawodsk. The place is rustic and simple. Surrounded by apple trees and vineyards, we downed a bottle of white wine with some cheese and cold meats. Although the meal was nothing fancy, it was lovely to sip wine, chat with friends, and just enjoy the breeze. 

Eating and Drinking (#1)

     Viennese cuisine features a plethora of dishes from Central and Eastern Europe. There's the world famous Wiener Schnitzel, fried piece of pork, from Milan, dumplings from Bohemia, goulash and paprika chicken from Hungary, pancakes from Romania, and apple strudel from Turkey. Essentially, it is the conglomeration of the best of the old empire! 

     On the whole, Viennese cuisine is heavy and meat-based, which is not exactly my thing. I am more of a pescetarian (though I do eat meat) and a lover of tofu. However, I do enjoy goulash (a hearty beef stew. [image: above]) with crusty bread. 
     
     I also recommend the Osterreicher IM MAK (the "O" has two dots on top). The restaurant is next to the MAK, the Musuem of Applied Arts, and is named after its chef, Osterreicher. Arguably the top chef in the country, the restaurant takes a contemporary spin on traditional Viennese cuisine. For main course, I had shrimp fettuccine, satisfactory, but nothing exemplary. However, the dessert was delicious! Resembling a regular chocolate crepe, dusted with sugar, the crepe "wow"-ed me. The secret? Frozen Yogurt!The sourness of the yogurt complimented the sweetness of the crepe; such a delicate balance of the layers of flavors, beautiful! 
(images: pasta + crepe, MAK)

     
     By the Danube, there are many delightful restaurants offering good food and a view of the river. Once, after biking along the Danube (which was absolutely lovely, except our asses suffered), we dined at Strandgasthaus Birner. A legend in Vienna, the terrace overlooks the Alte Donau and the kitchen serves fish specialities. I had the fish soup. The soup, filled generously with chunks of fish meat, was fresh (pungent with fishy-ness).

     For cheap eats, visit the susage stands. Equivalent of a fast-food joint, these sausage stands are everywhere and a good place to stop by for a quick bite. The choices range from the standard thin boiled sausage, the Frankfurter, to the fat fried sausage, the Burenwurst. Our ultimate favorite -- the Kaisekrainer (the first "a" has two dots on top). Infused with cheese, we nicknamed it the "pimple" dog. Why? Imagine cheese oozing out of the sausage, white against red, isn't that like the pus coming out of a fat, red pimple? The metaphor is gross, but the sausage is delicious! 

     Also, stroll around the local farner's market, Naschmarkt. The place opens daily, except Sunday, and sells the freshest produces ranging from fruits, fish, to olives. Simply looking entices my appetite! The food here is rather cheap, both uncooked and cooked, so come! 
(image: Naschmarkt)

     

ART ART ART (#3)

     With his child-like whimsicalness and explosive use of colors, Hundertwasser is one of my favorite artists! He is the pride of Vienna; a prolific artist who is simultaneously an architect, painter, and designer. As his name suggests ("Hundertwasser" means "hundred water"), he has an affinity for water. He asserts that water is the source of life and it cleanses the soul. As a result, his architectures are never without a fountain or some form of flowing water. During my visit to the Kunst Haus Wien, the Art House Vienna, I actually sat and listened to the water for half an hour. It was rather nice, the trickling sound of the water was baptismal. 

(image: Hundertwasser Haus, http://www.utip.info/cheesetoastie/images/artists/hundertwasser_bldg.jpg) 

1. Hundertwasser Haus: The residential apartment, designed by Hundertwasser, is one of the most covetious, prestigious adresses. The  exteior, covered in patches of the three primary colors: yellow, red, and blue, is characterized by Hundertwasser's signature lack-of-straight lines. The golden onion-shaped hat thing on the roof is also typical of the artist; he likes to draw/use onion motifs because onions, with its layers, signify life -- life reveals itself as each layer removes. Although it is impossible to go inside, you get a sense of Hundertwasser's fun-loving spirit. Take a look at the water fountain, with the twelve constellations (images shown above), in front of the apartment. Two essential elements: tile works & water.   
2. KunstHaus Wien: Close to the apartment complex is the Art House Vienna. It houses a large Hundertwasser collection, including his paintings, graphics, philosophy, ecology, and architecture. The ticket is super cute, it's a chunk (cardboard) of the KunstHaus Wien. The best way to describe my appreciation is simply thus: Hundertwasser's works make me happy. The image, scanned from a postcard that I bought, is titled "Green Town". The use of horizontal lines, which the artist adores and only uses, signifies a sense of infinity; for a horizontal line continues, whereas a vertical line connotes a definite, abrupt stop.

 

ART ART ART (#2)

     Schloss Belvedere

          The Belvedere is a MUST-SEE!

       The majestic, breathtaking palace of Prince Eugene of Savoy, the famous military hero who conqueored the Turks in 1718, is stunning -- both in its architectural design and interior collection. The palace is divided into two parts: the Upper and Lower Belvedere. Designed by Hildebrandt, the Belvedere is one of the finest baroque palaces in the world. Indeed, upon entering the palace, my attention was captured by the grandiose, three-story architecture and its reflection upon the water.
          "What a divine stretch of loveliness!" The dual reality, one of the actual palace and the other as reflected on the water, suggested an interplay on reality and illusion. The adrenaline rush, in my case, was like standing face to face with not only one, but two Dior Couture dresses!

      (image taken from wikipedia.org)

The Lower Belvedere was Prine Eugene's summer residence; while he entertained the courtesans in the Upper Belvedere, he prefered to stay in the more humble Lower Belvedere. 
The summer residence is connected to the orangery. 

(image: the long garden between the two Belvederes was laid out in classical French style)      

The most marvelous aspect of the Belvedere is its art collection. It is now the home of the Austrian Gallery. The first floor houses paintings from the turn of the 19th century; the second floor concentrates on 19th century paintings from the romantic, classical, and Biedermeier periods. The most important artists represented are Klimt and Schiele, both associated with the Art Nouveau school.

[note: Schiele is discussed in "Art Art Art #1]

•  Anton Romako

            Why was I intrigued by Romako's work? I don't really know. His   works, displayed in the gallery, consisted of portraits. This one is titled "An Italian Fisherboy". 
           There is something about the way the boy glances off to the side that renders the image rather vivid. If you look closely, the fishes in the basket shine with an intense lustre, and drip water droplets. The work is a brilliantly captured "in-the-moment" and I loved it!

• Vestimil Hofmann "Madonna"

            Hofmann's "Madonna" is a regal piece. The featured Madonna is not clothed in rich robes, nor is she removed from worldly sufferings. Here, she appears helpless, unable to save her children from poverty; the children are dressed in tattered linens and afflicted with hunger. the mother, in this case, is unable to offer anything except her love (as exemplified by her tender holding of the child), yet, it is this augmented notion of nothing-ness, the extreme poverty, that heightens the glory of maternal love.  

• Klimt 

            Klimt, one of the founders of the Secessionist Art Nouveau school, was known for his decorative art. His later paintins employ an ostentatious use of metallic gold and silver background color. The effect of the metallic luster is rather powerful and I highly recommend seeing a Klimt in person, the experience will change you. 

The Belvedere contains one of Klimt's best works, The Kiss (1908)

            Note the decorative symbols on the robes, squares and ovals, are indicative of gender. The gold background, which is of a more muted tone than the shimmering golden figures in the center, creates a sense of dream-like reality. The longer I stared at the painting, the more drawn in I was. The gold enveloped me and the color pigments seemed to float in the air... The colors, the shades of gold, infiltrated my space and I felt as if I was seeing, breathing, and dreaming gold... 
            It was a magnificent experience to see The Kiss. The man kisses, ever so lightly, on the woman's cheek. The gold that shrouds that two figures makes it rather difficult to separate the two (whose robe is whose), but maybe the point is to not separate the two, maybe their togetherness/oneness is fused together by the gold and sealed with the kiss. Sigh, so much's being said and expressed with "the kiss". 
            After The Kiss, that whole afternoon i was torn between feeling this light, golden bliss, and the desperate need to get kissed... a soft, gentle, kiss. 
[note: If you like Klimt's works or are interested in modernization/modernity, (a period known as the fin de siecle), then do visit the Secession. The Secession, otherwise known as the "Golden Cabbage", is an unmissable sight. The Secession house Klimt's famous Beethoven Frieze, a 34m-long work.]

         

ART ART ART (#1)

     Vienna is art heaven! At least for someone like me, who's slightly direction-challenged and thus am a not-so-good driver, the accessibility of the Viennese musuems (all within walking distance from the Ringstrasse) is such a relief! Imagine, culture and beauty, all walk-able! :)

MQ    

     The MQ, Museums Quartier Wien, or the Musuem Quarter is an area that contains several museums including: Museum of Modern Art (MUMOK), Vienna Architecture Centre (Architekturzentrum Wien), Art Hall (Kunsthalle Wien), Leopold Museum, and ZOOM (children's museum). If you find the MQ a delicious treasure, purchase the MQ Kombi Ticket and for 25 euro and you can visit all of the above museums except ZOOM. I visited MUMOK and the Leopold Museum.
     MUMOK
     I'm not a fan of the modern art, I often find the works too... unpleasing. It is rather painful to look at the literal translation of the disturbed psyche. However, I was intrigued by the exhibition  that was showing at the time. It was titled "Traum & Trauma", meaning "Dream & Trauma". The English translation fails to capture the word play of the original text; for dreams, as the product of the unconscious, often address fears or anxieties -- the negative emotions that are surpressed by the dominant superego. Here, the artists explore the various negative emotions by actualizing them into art works. It was a rather unsettling experience.
Upon entering the exhibition, I felt like an intruder stepping into someone's unconscious and probing into his or her private thoughts, which may very likely resemble the entangled red mess/web.
It was rather odd, when my presupposed notion, that individuals' fears and desires are isolated from my own, was overturned. At times, I find myself sharing similar anxieties such as the fear of violence or having animal-like nature (defecation). The artists pushed the unconscious, which resides in the background, into the foreground. The act forced the viewers to acknowledge trauma's unequivocal presence.

One of my favorite piece of work was the painting of the slice of cake (as shown on the left). The original painting was gigantic, bigger than me (a lot bigger)!  When staring into this perfect, glossy cake, with its delicate pink frosting, it was as if I was sinking into the canvas, into this sea of electrifying pink-ness, and I desperately wanted to take a bite of the cake. Yet, there was an underlying disquietude. The cake was just too perfect... and the pink too overwhelming. It screamed, Hansel and Gretel, a Brothers Grimm fairytale. If you know this cautionary tale well, then you know that beauty masks danger. For a cake this lovely, I am sure it has to be poisonous.
Leopold Musuem: Schiele

I absolutely must recommend the Leopold Musuem! The Leopold Museum started in 2001, based on the private collection of Rudolf and Elizabeth Leopold. It housed the world's larget collection of Schiele. This talented artist lived a brief life, dying at age 28. It was as if he knew he was going to die, for he produced prolific works. He is characterized by his intense, expressive lines. Indeed, Schiele is a master of lines, he never has to draw it twice. I saw his sketches, and was awed by his masterful control of his strokes -- perfection!
The above picture is titled "Death & the Maiden". The color palette is rather muted, composed of shades of brown and dense tones. The barren landscape, surrounding the two figures, seems to augment the overwhelming presence and inevitability of Death. I cannot really describe what it was like to view his paintings, but to experience a Schiele is to experience absolute isolation. His figures always feel alone. Even in his work, "The Family", in which he drew himself, his wife, and his unborn child, each figure remains utterly detached. There is no connection, not a touch, not even an eye contact. I remembered leaving the Leopold feeling blue, as if a pale melancholy enshrouded me, and I thought to myself, "in suffering we suffer alone... ultimately, we're alone..." 
[note: some of Schiele's works are displayed in the Belvedere]

Music in Vienna

     Vienna,  well-known for its music, boasts its numerous talents including Mozart, Beethoven, Schubert, and the Strausses. Thus, a complete Viennese experience must include music. My friends, Laura and Tracy, and I succumbed to the persuasion of a Mozart look-alike peddler and bought tickets to a concert, which promised everything -- music, opera, ballet, and champagne!

On a Wednesday night the three of us went to the Haus am Beethovenplatz for the concert. It was rather enjoyable. The program definitely catered to the tourists; each performance never exceeded five minutes, which is just the right amount of time before attention starts to wane. For a music lover, the program would not suffice. However, we had a good time and at least I can inform my parents that my Vienna journey was not in vain, there was "culture" :P. My favorite is Johann Strauss' 'The Blue Danube'. It is considered Vienna's unofficial anthem; as the waltz began and the delightful notes started to permeate the concert hall, I felt my spirit lifted by the cheerful tune. I believe that 'The Blue Danube' epitomizes Vienna. Whenever I hear the waltz, I see the Danube, in its regal blueness, glittering under the sun like a satin ribbon. Each of the two quicker beats (out of the 3-beat waltz pattern) marks the heartbeat of the river,,, to me, the Danube and Vienna share one heartbeat.
     In addition to attending the concert, we visited Haus der Musik (House of Music). It was a charming museum that was both educational and interactive. The first floor exhibited the historical archives of the Vienna Philharmonic. The second floor dealt with sound itself; it addressed the mechanics of sound. I liked the "sound wall" where I get to listen to the sampled sounds such as 'baby's crying', etc. The third floor covered Vienna's composers, which included: Josef Haydn, Wolfgang Amadeus Mozart, Ludwig van Beethoven, Franz Schubert, Johann Strauss, and Gustav Mahler. My favorite was Strauss' room. It showcased the waltz era and had artifacts such as the dainty laced gloves, the delicatedly printed invitation cards, and lovely fans. On the floor, there were footprint stickers and if you follow them, you can Viennese Waltz across the floor! You could even conduct a full orchestra; I tried, and I failed (the experiment affirmed my suspicion that  I am highly uncoordinated).



(image to the right: an ink painting of Mozart)

Ringstrasse and Nearby Architecture

     In Vienna's center, there's a beautifully paved road lined with monumental architectures and rows of green trees known as the Ringstrasse, or the Ring. This circular road marks Vienna's center and the rest of the city grows from that point, ring after ring. The reason why the city's urban planning follows the RIng traces back to 1848 when Franz Josef I, the newly crowned emperor who was at the peak of his power, decided to overhaul the medieval city and reconstruct the city. Although defining the effort as an act of modernization, the buildings on the Ring are either of the High Renaissance or neo-blank (e.g. neogothic, neobaroque, and neorococo) style; it wasn't until the rise of the Jugendstil and the Secession did true "modern" style, a new style that is removed from traditional arts and addresses the new, collective psyche,  develop. 

1. Votivkirche: Votive Church, finished in 1879, Gothic style.
2. Rathaus: The City Hall is constructed in 1872, neo-Gothic style. During my summer stay, there was the Musikfilm Festival (July & August), which featured operas, operettas, and concerts in the Rathausplatz (the square in front of the City Hall). In addition to the good music that began after dusk, there were booths serving food and drinks. Although we didn't understand German, the nightly outings were great fun. In addition to the mundane options of either stay at home or go clubbing, we can opt for the novel alternative of attending an outdoor concert (something cultural) with good companies (hehe, meaning both my friends + delicious snacks + wine). 
3. Parlament: Across from the City Hall is the Parlament (neo-classical). The Grecian architecture and the statue of Athena, the Greek goddess of wisdom, are perfect (since Greece is the home of democracy).
   
   
   
   
   
   
4. Naturhistorisches Museum & Kunsthirstorisches Museum: The museums, both in neo-Renaissance style, are situated across from each other. The identical exteriors exude a sense of majestic grandeur. I highly recommend visiting the National Art Museum; it showcases an extensive collection of arts that ranges from Egyptian to Renaissance paintings and sculptures.
   
   
   
5. Majolkahaus: On the way to the Naschmarkt, the local market, you will run into two apartments designed by Otto Wagner in 1899. The buildings are decorated in the Art Noveau style, a trend that is also known as Jugendstil, or 'Young Style', and is characterized by organic motif such as curling plant tendrils or flowing hair. The image on the left shows the facade decorated in pink floral motif whereas the right one displays gilded leaves and flowers.      
6. Karlskriche: The church, built in 1713, is in Baroque style. I love the play on dual-reality; for in front of the church there's a pond that reflects the church and thus creating a mirroring double. It is a grand piece of work, divinely beautiful! When visiting the church, you can pay a small fee to climb up the ladder and see the frescoes that are under restoration. It was quite an amazing experience, having an almost one-one closed-up moment with these religious arts.
   
   
   
7. Karlsplatz Pavilions: Another work of Otto Wagner, the station is an important work. It marks the shift into modernity through its use of new materials such as glass and steel. This work demonstrates that although modernity, with its industrial and technological advances, results in a loss of refined craftsmanship, artistic values do not need to be compromised. The station manages to combine beauty and functionality. 

Habsburg and its Glory

     As early as the 11th century, Vienna was already an important and properous city under the Babenbergs rule. However, the city is largely associated with the Habsburgs, who ruled the Austria Empire for over 600 years. The impressive imperial power, as well as the rich culture and heritage, can be best appreciated with a visit to the Hofburg (Imperial Palace). 

     The palace, with its monumental architectures, is a sight that is impossible to miss. The architectural diversity results from the fact that each Habsburg ruler, in order to demonstrate his prowess as well as to avoid residing in the living quarter of the previous ruler, would build himself a new section. Of course, the new building would fashion after the "most-in" style of the time and so while the Schweizerhof (Swiss Courtyard) dates from the 13th century, the Neue Burg (the New Palace, as shown on the left, a picture of myself + Laura) is of the neo-Renaissance style. There are lots of things to see, such as the Kaiserappartements: once the official living quarter of Franz Josef I and Empress Elisabeth, Sisi (she is known for her beauty, fashion sense, and even lovers, there's a Sisi Museum) and the Spanische Reitschule (the Spanish Riding School retains the imperial tradition and has equestrian show performed by Lipizzaner stallions). 

     However, to us girls, the most exciting "wow" is visiting the Schatzakammer, or the Imperial Treasury. I was dazzled by the glitz... it was slightly overwhelming. The imperial crown (below) dates back to the 10th century and has precious gems decorating its already resplendent, golden surface. There was also a large collection of ecclesiastical treasures. Back then, the people believe that the fragments  

of sacred objects, such as a  piece of the True Cross or the tablecloth from the Last Supper,

have super powers (e.g. healing power, protection from evil) and thus these sacred "treasures" are elaboratedly preserved. As I gaped at the richly decorated relic of a Saint's pinky (right: the bejeweled finger), I cannot help but lament the seemingly unreasonable use of the valuable stones and gems. I mean, what a waste! The intricately designed gold vines and the numerous pearls embellish a supposedly powerful, dried-up finger; in comparison to decorating something that is already dead, these gems would live a more meaningful life beautifying a living person :P. My walk through the treasury was literally a mouth-dropping experience in which every other (or every) object received a "wow". 
     Nevertheless, nothing compared to the 492-carat aquamarine. As I examined the various treasures, Tesha broke my concentration and pulled me away, informing me that all these other "treasures" are nothing compared to the "IT". When I got there, I saw six of my classmates (all girls, of course), gaping at the jewel. My first impression: "OMG, that's huge!" This gigantic piece of rock propells the girls into an exciting frenzy and discussions. The conclusion: this is to die for. We hope our future wedding rings will be as big as this one, if not, at least let us have something big enough to break our fingers. 

Stop 1: Vienna, Austria

          Austria borders Hungary and Slovak in the East, Switzerland in the West, Germany and Czech in the North, and Italy in the South; its strategic location, as the gateway between Eastern and Western Europe, renders it economically and politically powerful. Furthermore, it is the focal point where brilliant minds and talents converge. In the past, Vienna was the center of classical music and boasted musical prodigies, such as Wolfgang Amadeus. Around1900, with the emergence of modernity, Vienna became the center of englightened social / political / intellectual movements and produced major figures such as Freud, Klimt and Wagner among others. During my one month stay, I experienced Vienna as a living classroom in which interdisplinary subjects such as hisotry, literature, architecture, urban design, political science, etc. were addressed. In contrast to past traveling experiences, in which I merely play the role of a tourist, this time, I engaged with the city in a most direct and unforgettable way!

          Note:  Buy a "Vienna Card"

** Group Picture!! (in front of the Belvedere)